By Paul Delaney & Company
Date: Aug 27, 2008
NTS Sheets: 2C5, 2C12, 2C11/10
Weather: Light northeasterlies, variable cloud and sun, warm.
Paddlers: Paul Delaney in Sea Knife Pro, Trevor Rice in homemade Chesapeake 17, Lisa Wade in Sea Knife 17
Distance: 20 km
Directions to the area by vehicle: From St. John's TCH to Clarenville, then route 230 to Lethbridge, turn east in the direction of Trinity/Port Rexton, turn northeast on route 235 at Southern Bay in the direction of Summerville, etc.
Thumbnail map - click to enlarge
With the light northeast winds that we were experiencing on this day, this trip seemed perfect to avoid any hard blasts should the wind increase as well as benefit from any wind and swell as we moved along. Plus the contours and landforms promised an interesting coast, but it was better than the maps alluded to. In fact this was a very enjoyable day and I would recommend this trip to any kayaker. Plus, I know there is much in the vicinity, such as around Keels and the Elliston to Cape Bonavista area.
Putting in at Tickle Cove there was a bit of sea action from the winds and minor swell as we started out, dodging through a few rocks and islands ( a sign of things to come) till we reached the entrance to “the Tickle” and “the Arch”. After monitoring it for awhile, but due to not knowing what was on the other side, I decided not to go through. Instead we rounded the small island with only moderate swell and clapotis. Looking back into the exit from the Arch/Tickle it would have been pretty easy to navigate after one takes a bit of time to understand the various rocks and the action of the swell. We had only a low swell this day (under 1 m), but it could obviously have been much higher, which would have made things more difficult or more fun depending on who you are.
(Left to right) Trev at Red Cliff, Lisa in Cove, Red Shore, Red Shore (Thumbnails – click on image to enlarge)
Carrying on, we encountered a wonderful assortment of tiny islands and coves and tickles which you could dodge through and around, playing with the surf to navigate some interesting passages. Myself, I had a couple of very nice rides through rocky gauntlets or just passing between small islands/rocks. We correctly spent a lot of time manoeuvring through this area. It was a lot of fun and I’m sure the more adventurous and experienced paddlers would have done a lot more. Besides the numerous rocks to dodge, there are several notches and smallish caves. The outcrop consists of red and grey sediments, providing a rather strikingly colourful panorama. This outcrop and shore type continued all the way into Open Hall. It was a lot of fun and really highlighted the joy you can have kayaking near shore!
(Left to right) Grey Beds, Grey Beds closer, Paul at Red Shore, Two sea kayakers in cove - closer (Thumbnails – click on image to enlarge)
Crossing Open Hall to the west, the shore style changed to some extent, becoming a higher and steeper cliff shore, composed of rocks of volcanic derivation. Heading towards Plate Cove we stopped on a rather poor beach between Arrow Point and the northeast point into Plate Cove. There are grassy fields above the beach and no doubt trail access from Plate Cove East. Apart from Red Cliff and Open Hall there aren’t a lot of obvious takeouts along this shore.
(Left to right) Lisa in small crack, Bouldery zone, Paul at Cliff, Lisa heads out (Thumbnails – click on image to enlarge)
As the day was getting long (we started late), we skipped touring around Plate Cove but headed straight across to Plate Cove Head. This headland has very impressive, 30-50 m or more, vertical to overhanging cliffs rising directly out of deep, clear water. A few small notches and noisy caves augment the area. Makes you feel really small. Watch out for a few sunkers here, depending on tide level. Passing along, you round into a cove with a rather long, moderately steep gravel beach with a high island on the western exit. This beach would be great to land for lunch, but depending on the swell, it may have to be approached with some caution, and could also make for some interesting surfing I suppose. There is a small house above this beach which means there should be an exit from here into Plate Cove.
(Left to right) Lisa before rocks, Rocky shore, Paul leaves crack, Birds and western view (Thumbnails – click on image to enlarge)
Once past this wonderful area, you head down a long straight section with steep relief. The topo maps don’t really do justice to the terrain. The cliffs are multicoloured and steep with treed hills above the outcrop. There are several sea stacks and notches before arriving at a medium sized beach. Just off the beach there are a bunch of rocky islets and sea stacks, no doubt the reason for the lookout, which includes some type of roofed structure that we didn’t check out, on the cliff above. These rocks caused the waves, at least on this day, to clash just in front of the beach, coming from two directions. A good play area potentially. Nothing of this area is discernible from the maps, just as the islets, sea stacks and other small islands along this shore are missing, but it occurs basically right at the join of two map sheets. There is a small path down from this lookout, about 7 m above the beach, which would be a good takeout/put in place and camping spot as well, with access probably from within Plate Cove West.
(Left to right) Point near Open Hall, Lisa charges through, Cave at Open Hall, Lisa and Open Hall (Thumbnails – click on image to enlarge)
By this time, the wind and swell was pushing us easily down the coast and it was a very enjoyable cruise admiring the land, and the various birds. We landed at a slipway on the southwest corner of Indian Arm, just before where the river runs into the sea. It is the immediate right hand turn once you turn in towards Somerville.
Other things to note on this trip were the many eagles sighted along the way. Anyone who knows this peninsula can attest to the amount of eagles in the area. In general, for the entire trip, we also saw lots of terns, an amazing amount of twillicks (especially at the bottom of Goose Bay, near Brooklyn), lots of snipes, some plovers, more than a few fish hawks, and lots of gulls of course. A few jumping capelin were spied in Indian Arm. A nice salmon launched itself from just off the starboard side of my kayak near the takeout point. Only one whale was sighted, in the Tickle Cove area.
(Left to right) Paul along the cliff shore, Paul in Cave, 3 photos of Plate Cove Head (Thumbnails – click on image to enlarge)
(Left to right) Plate Cove Head, exit Plate Cove Head, 2 photos of Islets, wave zone (Thumbnails – click on image to enlarge)
Caleb's (Thumbnail – click on image to enlarge)
While on this trip we stayed in Brooklyn, at a spot called Old Caleb’s Place. It was a really nice spot, very secluded on a hilltop on an old farm. It is very peaceful, has three bedrooms, rooster, chickens and a friendly Newfoundland Pony named Misty. The price was quite good, and just down the driveway and across the road there is a small beach perfect for entering into Goose Bay. Access all over the peninsula is easy from here.
(Left to right) Sea stacks & beach, cave near beach, back to beach & sea stacks, two on Indian Arm shore (Thumbnails – click on image to enlarge)
All photos were taken by Trevor, thus I include one of him solo. A little water on the lens affected the quality at times.