The world will hardly admit of an excuse for a man leaving a coast unexplored he has once discovered. (Capt. James Cook, circa 1765. Quoted during his time mapping the area of Bay D’Espoir and the South Coast of NFLD)
As we brushed along rapidly, nearly touching both shores at the same time, I thought Nature had exhausted all her powers to render the scene enchanting. (Bishop Michael Fleming, Aug 3, 1835. Commenting on his journey along Gaultois Passage)
Date of
Trip: Oct 3-6
Paddlers: Alison Dyer, Neil Burgess, Dan Miller, Paul Delaney
1:50,000
Topographic maps: Gaultois 1M/12, Facheux Bay 11P/9.
CHS Nautical Chart 4644 Bay D'Espoir and Hermitage Bay
Listen to Alison Dyer's CBC Radio Outfront story on the trip - "Balancing life in a kayak" (available in Real Audio) - at www.cbc.ca/outfront, archived for Jan.26.2004.
This trip was conceived as a plan to travel from Gaultois to McCallum while exploring areas locally, following in the wake of other explorers such as Capt. James Cook who mapped the area in 1765/66. These communities are located on the South Coast of Newfoundland. Gaultois has been the site of European habitation since the late 18th Century and was also inhabited by Micmac Indians in the 19th century. The area has been nicknamed on highway signs as “Coast Of Bays” and for good reason (www.coastofbays.nf.ca). There are many large, narrow, steep sided, bays/fiords and passages along with snug harbours hosting warm homes that cling to the rocky shores like tucamore to the cliffs throughout the area of Bay D’Espoir and all along the South Coast towards the mainland ferry terminal at Port-aux-Basques.
The communities of Gaultois and McCallum are isolated and accessible by ferry. The ferry runs regularly, several times a day from the road connection at Hermitage to Gaultois (20 min), and once a day via Gaultois to McCallum (1.8 hrs) and return to Hermitage (1.8 hr). (See www.gov.nl.ca/ferryservices/schedules.stm) This is one of the many good points about kayaking in this area, as planning becomes easier than other trips along the South Coast. Whilst there is much to do just in the vicinity of these communities, these connections can be used as a base for more extensive journeys throughout the region. Some of this will be remarked upon later.
There is a bit of a drive if you are leaving St.
John’s. It’s approximately 605 km, or some 6.5 to 7 hours. This compares to some
425 km to arrive at the Dildo Run area on the northeast coast, another popular
destination. So it’s a bit farther, but not so bad and it’s worth it. The drive
down from the TCH crosses an amazing expanse of pure wilderness: barrens, bogs, hills and
trees. From the cutoff to St. Alban’s towards Hermitage you are presented with
remarkable terrain of rugged hills with abundant outcrop, barrens and bogs and pristine
lakes and rivers and bays that reach deep in off the main coast, with a stunning view down
Hermitage Bay from the highway.
Fig 1: Hermitage Bay (Dyer). Thumbnail - click on image to enlarge.
Once in Hermitage you will find most facilities that you may need, such as various stores, gas stations, a restaurant, and the Sandyville Inn located in Sandyville, 5 minutes away (709-883-2332). For camping Jipujij'kuei Kuespem Nature Park near Conne River is close enough to be useful, and is a nice, small park situated on a pond, probably great for some practice beforehand. For white water buffs, Conne River was raging both times we passed.
We had decided on the ferry to get us to Gaultois
where we would spend the night before starting our journey on the water. But the crossing
to Gaultois is not long and despite my general concept that long, open crossings present
little of interest as the land is too far away to give good views, the land around
Hermitage Bay is so dramatic that even in the middle of the bay the view is very
impressive. There are several perfectly accessible beaches right in Hermitage that can be
used for a crossing if so desired.
Fig 2: The Terra Nova, cargo-passenger ferry boat, at the wharf in Gaultois (Burgess)
Map 1: Bay D’Espoir area
Map 2: Gaultois Passage route details
To make things easier we loaded our gear into the kayaks and carried them aboard full. Upon landing in Gaultois we were immediately presented with a number of people willing to lend a hand if needed. The owner of the Gaultois Inn was there as well. Although he has a pickup truck that can take you to the inn, the steep road might cause the kayaks to come out so we decided to paddle across. With a little effort he should be able to ensure the truck can carry kayaks without worry. Not sure of seal launches yet, and with a rocky shore possible, I stepped in from the shore, and leaving only a minor amount of gel coat on the rocks, entered without problem. All others tried seal launches. One of the locals didn’t really believe that it was better to push hard so Alison had a near tip, but didn’t get wet. Hauling up on the slippery slipway near the inn we unloaded our gear and headed for our resting place for the night.
Fig 3: Readying to seal launch to cross the harbour (Dyer)
At the inn we were properly introduced to Cal and
Barb Hunt, the owners. They can be reached at (709) 841-4141. The inn has 6 good-sized
rooms with multiple beds in them, and could host upwards of a dozen people at least. There
is a small bar and the dining area is located in a comfortable room split between dining
tables and a living area with comfortable sofas and chairs with TV if desired. The room is
full of interesting items along with a piano and guitar. The whole place is rather cozy
and comfortable, especially after some wet time on the water. Room #5 has a great view of
the harbour. That night we were treated to a sumptuous seafood supper, featuring scallops,
shrimp, salmon, cod, mackerel, and halibut. It was quite impressive as well as tasty and
well prepared. Certainly a welcome scoff after a long drive. After a few drinks we were
off to the comfortable beds to ready ourselves for tomorrow.
Fig 4: Gaultois, a snug harbour from the storms (Burgess)
Fig 5: The Gaultois Inn (Burgess)
Fig 6: Local pool hall, Gaultois
(Burgess)
Normally breakfast consists of coffee or tea with muffins. It’s basically help yourself in the kitchen in the morning, nice and casual. Being as we were going for a paddle we’d asked for a full breakfast. We got even more than expected. Bacon, the real type, thick and well cooked, eggs, whole wheat toast, fish cake, hash browns. Really prepped us for a good day paddle.
Despite weather forecasts, this day we were
presented with an amazingly beautiful day, only somewhat unexpected for this time of year.
The day was perfectly tranquil, not a breath, and not a cloud from there to the sun. This
was perfect, as weather reports didn’t quite predict this amazing day. It’s not
unusual to get a nice clear day in the Nfld fall, but the temperatures this year were well
above normal.
Fig 7: Sun rising with view out
Gaultois Hr across Hermitage Bay (Burgess)
Fig 8: Slipway near the Inn
(Miller)
. 
Fig 9: Paul in Gaultois (Dyer)
Fig 10: The Bottoms, Gaultois
(Delaney)
Heading east out of picturesque Gaultois we passed
a small island that had once hosted a whaling station operated by Newman Company from
about 1836-1840. The trip to the entrance of Little, or Gaultois, Passage is a bit exposed
but only short. This could potentially be a problem with the wrong winds, but today there
were none. The steep cliffs of coarsely porphyritic granite were tree-clad where they
could cling, perfect habitat for eagles of which we saw a few right away, and many during
the trip.
Fig 11: Entrance to Gaultois Passage (Delaney)
Entering into the Passage we were impressed with the high cliffs, especially on the east side. Thin waterfalls fell down the near vertical barren, rock faces. We could hear a roar from in farther and quickly discovered a fantastic waterfall, falling some 50-60m into the sea with a huge volume of water due to yesterday’s heavy rain. The waterfall was strong enough to create its own wind with heavy mist drifting out from it.
Nearby were two islands called the Matchems with
the first of three aquaculture sites located just inside them. Many active salmon were
jumping around in their cages as we passed. These were only year old salmon and will be
harvested the following fall. This particular farm is owned in part by Cal Hunt, and
although he said we could have a look at the fish with the underwater cameras, that would
mean exiting the kayaks and bothering the workers who were steady at it.
Fig 12: Heading into the Passage (Delaney)
Fig 13: Inside the Passage (Burgess)
Fig 14: Grand scene of Gaultois
Passage (Miller)
Fig 15: “Like the Oil” inside Gaultois Passage (Delaney)
Fig 16: Looking towards The
Matchems (Delaney)
Fig 17: Shoreline inside the Passage (Delaney)
Continuing up the passage with the now rising
tide, the travel was smooth and easy. Many eagles were seen and all enjoyed the calm
waters, the beautiful day and the excellent scenery along both shores.
Fig 18: Matchem Brook Falls (Dyer)
Fig 19: Matchem Brook Falls (Dyer)
Fig 20: Matchem Brook Falls (Miller)
Fig 21: Cliffs on east side near
the Matchems (Delaney)
Fig 22: Paul in front of cliffs
(Miller)
Fig 23: Floating cabin at
aquaculture site with Matchem Brook Falls behind (Miller)
Fig 24: Typical terrain in Passage
(Dyer)
Fig 25: A bit overexposed, but you
get the picture. Seal Cove (Delaney)
Fig 26: Seal Cove, Gaultois Passage
(Delaney)
At Seal Nest Cove, where there is another
aquaculture site, we stopped for lunch. A strong flow of fresh water was issuing from a
good sized brook which Dan paddled into aways. You could probably camp here somewhere, but
the fish farm is a bit of a distraction and there are better sites. A small, old cabin is
tucked into the woods here, but would only be an emergency lodging at best.
Fig 27: Seal Nest Cove, possible
camping on barren knob to lower right (Delaney)
Fig 28: Looking west to Long Island
at Maria Cove with Alison paddling past (Delaney)
Passing north we encountered a few small boats
including one bunch with a moose head propped on the bow, the result of a successful
hunting expedition on Bois Island.
Fig 29: Successful moose hunters.
Note antlers at the bow. Sixteen points! (Miller)
In Deer Cove we found another wonderful waterfall draining the barren lands above.
Fig 30: Deer Cove waterfall
(Delaney)
Finally crossing to the other side we explored some small calm coves, the water so still and the kayaks gliding so smoothly, just the rush of water from brooks at the head of the coves to disturb the amazing stillness. A few cabins can be found along this shore, with maybe some camping possible if necessary.
As we headed into Raymonds Point it was obvious
this was a prime spot to camp. There are several beaches and lots of room for tents. Three
cabins stand guard, including a log cabin up the hill which we were welcomed to use by the
moose hunters that we had met on the ferry from Hermitage. Although it was only 3pm, the
beach and view were so perfect, complete with picnic table and two wooden deck chairs, we
had to call it a day and soak in the amazing view. We wandered around the meadows and
checked out a clump of rosehip bushes. Alison found a small cemetery with three
headstones, one of a Strickland and another hosts a sleeping Kearley. The air was so still
we could easily hear a raging river draining the high barrens seen some 5km away across
the bay. We decided to eat at the beach, warming some caribou stew and knocking back some
beer, wine and rum. Despite the heavy rains which had soaked most all wood, a nice, warm
fire was set as the clear night air cooled off a little. We settled comfortably in the
cabin for the night just as heavy rain and drizzle moved quickly in and continued all
night.
Fig 31: Deer Cove Falls (Dyer)
Fig 32: Raymond’s Point with
Bois Island across Long Reach (Dyer)
Fig 33: Kayaks beached at
Raymond’s Point (Miller)
Fig 34: Neil lounging at
Raymond’s Point (Dyer)
Fig 35: Resting in a heavenly place
at Raymond’s Point (Dyer)
Fig 36: Where Once They Stood
(Dyer)
Fig 37: Relaxing in the sun at
Raymond’s Point (Miller)
Next morning dawned overcast and wet, although for the most part the rain held off while we loaded up. Weather radio called for moderate SE winds, which would be perfect as we were going to head down Long Reach along the north side of the island. Rounding Raymond’s Point however, we discovered a good lop on the water with SW winds of probably 20-25 knots. We paddled into this for a few hundred metres before Dan wisely advised that we turn back as paddling as hard as this for all day would certainly just wear us out eventually. Back at Raymond’s Point we decided to return to Gaultois via the Passage once more. This time we had to paddle hard into the wind that was funneling up the narrow channel, but due to the nature of the Passage there were virtually no waves to bother us. The fog on the hilltops provided a different perspective of the landscape.
Remarkably as we rounded back into Seal Nest Cove
for another lunch break the wind fell off, and by the time lunch was over there was no
wind whatsoever and the water had turned to an oily black surface. Again we had great,
easy paddling, switching sides as we headed south. This time we went into L’Anse a
Flamme. This is a mostly steep-sided and very picturesque cove where remains of Beothuck
Indian, Maritime Archaic Indian, and Paleo-Eskimo habitation have been discovered, another
mature eagle overlooking his domain from the cliffs. Camping should be possible here
somewhere.
Fig 38: Fog on the hills in
Gaultois Passage (Delaney)
Fig 39: Dan trying to look like a
Paleo-Eskimo in L’Anse a Flamme (Dyer)
Fig 40: L’Anse a Flamme (Dyer)
Fig 41: L’Anse a Flamme (Dyer)
Unfortunately, at this point Neil informed us that he had developed a slight medical condition and had to leave for attention. So we headed for Gaultois leaving some coast unexplored. Back in Hermitage Bay the water was oily calm with just a slight swell. Of note as we paddled out the Passage to the bay the rising tide was definitely slowing progress. It is best to head north in the Passage with a rising tide and vice versa going south.
Fig 42: Inside Gaultois Harbour
(Delaney)
One of the benefits of this area, the regular ferry service, came to the fore at this time as Neil, accompanied by Dan, had to leave the island. As we were putting them aboard at about 5pm the rain started to lash down. By 6pm a real storm was raging with high winds, heavy rain, thunder and lightning. Certainly enjoyed the hot shower after a wet day and the comfortable confines of the Gaultois Inn compared to a small tent which had been the plan for that night. Fried cod for supper made the day!
Next day the two leftovers decided to head it back to St. John’s rather than a few half days at McCallum, especially with strong winds and rain predicted. We thought that it was better to return and do some real days around McCallum another time. To our chagrin, instead of the calm morning weather deteriorating as forecast, it became another perfect day!!!
Oh well, as Cook said, now that we have discovered
it, we have to complete the exploration, and I recommend everyone else to experience the
area. There is no doubt that anyone who had participated in the few days we had would have
had a very memorable excursion, and would be anxious to return and see some more.
Hopefully this report will inspire many kayakers from all over the world to go and have a
great time in Gaultois and area. We’ll have to complete the McCallum end next year,
and file another report, unless someone beats us to it!!
Fig 43: Boardwalk in Gaultois
(Dyer)
Fig 44: Deepwater Point, west of
Gaultois Harbour (Delaney)
Fig 45: Looking west to the Fox
Islands and coast near entrance to Hermitage (Delaney)
Other Commentary
There are many days that can be spent exploring this area. A week of excellent kayaking would be easy to put together with resupply possible en route.
Our initial plan called for 3 days of paddling. First day would have been as written above, with the next as far as the northwest corner of Long Island at Green Cove Point where I’m told camping is possible. Camping is also possible at Hr Le Gallais, or Hr Gallet, on the north side of Long Island, a resettled area with lots of current cabins and enough meadows for several tents. The one crossing of any size (2.5 km) was over to Great Jervis Island/Pushthrough. This was to be done either on Day 2 if waters and wind were fine or the next morning from Green Point with camping possible at Man of War Cove and Shallop Cove and no doubt at resettled Pushthrough. The Day 3 plan was to continue on to McCallum and stay at the Seaside Cottage run by Nina Crant, where she can take at least 7 and is purported to cook a great fish dinner (709-846-4100/3141). Unfortunately it didn’t work out exactly as planned but all would agree the bit we got done made the trip very worthwhile.
I think anyone planning a trip out this way could have a great time doing what we tried to do. Also the south side of Long Island has great looking coves and harbours, some of which have been resettled, such as Piccaire Hr (camping at resettled community), Round Hr, Stone Valley (camping here), Little Bay, and Sam Hitches Hr. No doubt an exciting journey that will have to be done.
The McCallum area is full of islands and a sheltered Bonne Bay, with resettled Mosquito to the west, the Pushthrough/Great Jervis area to the east. Simply going straight to McCallum and spending a few days there is another possibility.
Other reasonable options include camping at resettled Goblin or Stanley Cove or Raymond’s Island followed by a days run to the head of the dramatic North Bay (called Bay du Nord locally) where camping is also assured. These can be done from Gaultois via Raymonds Pt or from McCallum via Pushthrough. Not far away past Mosquito (camping there) is the great fiord of Facheux Bay (pronounced like the raw seafood sushi).
The wonderful terrain is complimented by very friendly people, whales, many eagles, the assurance of great fish dinners, mussels and scallops collected yourselves and cooked on a beach. The crossing area from Long Island to Pushthrough/Great Jervis is known to be a great place to see whales, dolphins and many birds stirred up by their feeding. The tickle between Raymond’s Island and the main shore is known to be a prime place to see whales, dolphins and seals and for that reason was investigated for its potential to be a marine park.
Checking weather here was a bit of a quandary. The area is halfway between the Southwest Coast and South Coast as broadcast on the marine weather station, so some interpretation has to be considered. Southwest winds can be a problem in many parts and the skipper of the ferry said the short haul from Middle Island to Taylor’s Island on the way into McCallum can be bad with a southerly. Fog, especially in July, can be constant. Due to the heights and sharpness of the cliffs along with the orientation of the straight bays and passages, winds can funnel and cause confused waters where otherwise not expected. Water in the brooks we saw all seems to be quite brown, boggy. It’s no doubt good to drink but doesn’t look exactly appetizing, so bring your own drinking water at least. Cell phones work at Raymond’s Point and elsewhere in the Passage, with towers above Hermitage and near St. Alban’s. Climbing a hill could be necessary locally.
One might also note if they look closely at the photos that hiking in this terrain is quite easy once onto the barrens. The lack of tree cover provides grand vistas of the land. The vast majority of the South Coast provides this type of terrain and on wind days, or just if you feel like hiking to see some bears, moose or caribou or fish for trout or pick berries, you can go for hikes of any length, or just climb the nearest knob or headland. An old guy from Gaultois told me of a tunnel to the west of Gaultois along the trail to Piccaire Harbour. It’s called the Cage(s?). On Long Island, trails also go to the north side and further west of the island to Stone Valley area.
All photos taken by Paul Delaney using a Kodak Sport disposable camera. Photos by Alison Dyer and Dan Miller used a regular 35mm waterproof camera. Some photos of Alison used an old SLR Nikon 35mm and Dan also used a digital camera for some shore shots. Neil’s shots used a digital camera.
The paddling distance from Gaultois to Raymonds
Point was approximately 17km as we paddled, taking a leisurely 5.5 hours, while the
straight distance would be about 15 km. A crossing from Hermitage to Gaultois would have a
minimum open crossing of 2.0 km with 8.0 km total distance.
Fig 46: Loaded for trip to ferry
(Dyer)
Fig 47: Gaultois (Dyer)
Fig 48: Gaultois Harbour (Dyer)
Fig 49: Gaultois Harbour (Dyer)