Text - Peter Armitage, graphic/map - Bill Ritchie, photos - Lewis Greenland
Paddling route from East Bauline to Great Island to Tors Cove return. The top of the island in this image is SOUTH, the bottom NORTH. Thumbnail, click on image to enlarge (graphic Bill Ritchie).
Great Island placenames obtained by Bill Ritchie from Louis Melvin, St.Michael's, Newfoundland. The top of the island in this image is SOUTH, the bottom NORTH. Thumbnail, click on image to enlarge (graphic Bill Ritchie)
On Saturday, 17 July 1999, Mark Dykeman, Lewis Greenland, Bill Ritchie and Peter Armitage departed East Bauline on the southern shore of the Avalon Peninsula at approximately 10:00 am using the slipway by the wharf. The air temperature was in the low twenties with high cloud. Winds were from the West South West at speeds of 33 to 52 km/hr.
Once we departed the sheltered cove at East Bauline, we encountered a swell from the south running at 2-3 metres. Departing the cove requires some caution because of a submerged rock (a sinker) called "the whale."
Rounding Gill's Point on Great Island. Thumbnail, click on image to enlarge (photo Lewis Greenland)
Upon departure, we immediately headed for the north end of Great Island. Great Island is part of the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. The 1 metre waves from the WSW mixed with the swell from the south made for a bit of weather-cocking on the way across. However, once we reached the north end of the island, we were pretty much in the lee and could relax.
Great Island is a protected bird sanctuary and no one except wildlife biologists and other people with permits are permitted to land. This doesn’t stop the sea kayaker from enjoyed the myriad seabirds that frequent the spot. As we paddled along the cliffs of the island, Atlantic puffins dove off the cliffs only to belly-flop on the water and scoot off. Skittish turrs (Common murrs) were encountered momentarily on rocks at the northeast corner of the island. Black guillemots bobbed about in the water along with the puffins. Herring gulls and kittiwakes nested on the cliffs above us. The stench of guano filled the air. A short way out to sea, humpback whales spouted and dove again in search of caplin.
The "Devil’s Throat" is found on the east side of the island in Landing Cove. From a distance, it looks like a skull. Two deep sea caves comprise the eyes. Swell conditions on this side of the island were good, so we entered both of the caves. When entering the caves, one had to be careful not to look up because of the excrement raining down from the nesting birds on the cliff above. Note: these caves can be extremely dangerous. They should only be entered when the swell conditions are appropriate otherwise an unsuspecting kayaker could get crushed on the ceiling of a cave by an incoming wave.
Bill Ritchie on his way to the Devil's Throat (Great Island). Thumbnail, click on image to enlarge (photo Lewis Greenland)
Mark Dykeman and Bill Ritchie paddling into the Devil's Throat. Thumbnail, click on image to enlarge (photo Lewis Greenland)
In the Devil's Throat. Thumbnail, click on image to enlarge (photo Lewis Greenland)
Mark Dykeman on his way out of the Devil's Throat. Thumbnail, click on image to enlarge (photo Lewis Greenland)
Further around Great Island, on the southeast corner, is "the Arch" (just past Landing Cove). Mark and Bill road through these arches on a few good swells coming in from the south. Nearby, at the entranceway to the Arch, we good see one of the biologists in an observation blind up above the cliff.
Mark Dykeman, Bill Ritchie and Peter Armitage in front of "the Arch." Thumbnail, click on image to enlarge (photo Lewis Greenland)
Conditions were too rough on the southern end of Great Island so we headed back along our original route and ferried across into the wind with a fair amount of effort directly across to Pee Pee Island. At times, the strong gusts of winds were enough to almost blow our paddles out of our hands. At Pee Pee Island, we met a couple of insane tourists bobbing about in rented kayaks with their sprayskirts undone, no paddle floats or safety gear in sight. We later learned that one of them capsized near the slipway back at East Bauline. They had almost no kayaking experience and were certainly endangering their lives by venturing out into the rough sea conditions.
In the lee of the shore, we headed north to Tors Cove where we parked our kayaks on a pebbled beach for lunch. An overly tame horse joined us for the meal; begging for oatmeal cookies, apples and anything else that looked appetizing to an equestrian pallette.
After lunch, we headed back along the shore under very calm conditions, passing Burnt Cove Island, Burnt Cove and Seal Cove on the way. Rounding Grady’s Point on the way into East Bauline exposed us once again to the southerly swell and gusts of WSW wind. We hauled our boats out of the water at about 3:30 pm having had a thoroughly enjoyable day.
Kayaking to Great Island and in the Tors Cove area is very rewarding given the wildlife, sea caves, arches and other natural wonders to be experienced. However, a number of safety issues must be considered when kayaking in this area.
1. The swells from the south can be very large. Also, the distance from East Bauline to Great Island is about 2 km meaning that strong westerly winds can fetch large waves. This route is quite exposed to the Atlantic meaning that easterly or northeasterly winds can also generate rough sea conditions.
2. The submerged rock at the mouth of the cove at East Bauline - known as "The Whale" - is extremely dangerous and must be avoided at all cost.
3. The sea caves on Great Island can be extremely dangerous if easterly or northeasterly swells are running. Enter only under very calm conditions.
4. Large swells pour through "the Arch" on the southeastern corner of Great Island. Only experienced kayakers should venture through here.
5. Fog is prevalent along the southern shore during the summer and can roll in without warning. Kayakers should always carry a compass when travelling in this area and should be proficient in its use. Do not kayak in the fog unless you have experience or are travelling with someone who does.
6. There are almost no landing places on Great Island, and in any event, it is illegal to venture onto the island. Suitable landing places can be found along the shore between East Bauline and Tors Cove (e.g. Seal Cove ad Burnt Cove) as well as on Ship Island. In fact, there’s a good beach on the west side of Ship Island which serves as a good spot for a boilup and a meal. A local farmer grazes sheep on this island.
7. The water temperature along this shore can be very cold, so kayakers should dress appropriately (e.g. dry suits, wet suits, etc.)