Map 1: Sept 21 route
Note: All images are thumbnails. Click on image to enlarge.
Map 1: Sept 21 route
Sept 20
This was the return trip for me that I mentioned in a previous Merasheen Islands Trip
Report. Please read that one as well as it will give some other info I don't want to
repeat here, and provides a few more maps and photos.
Well, this group had been thinking about this for awhile. Andy was particularly keen on
doing this one. Although many were contacted, for this date, this is the crew that we
ended up with, and it worked out well with the accommodations and paddling. Neil is a
biologist that works with the Dept of Wildlife and has spent much time working out that
way looking into eagles' nests and studying otters. Andy works on the development side of
the outdoor tourism industry, creating walking and skiing trails in various places. Alison
is a writer and a very good photographer as you'll see, and I a geologist more content
with being in the woods than anywhere. So a good mix of experiences with an ability to
garner some new info from the people around.
We all met in Arnold's Cove on Friday around midday. Tom Bailey, whom I'd met on the last
trip, was going to take us out (1-709-227-2526 is the number for his furniture store in
Dunville). Tom is very much into developing something revolving around the Merasheen area.
He goes to the islands pretty much every weekend, depending a bit upon the weather, and if
for the return it looks bad he's not going to bother risking his life for the sake of a
day (Every kayaker should have this attitude as well, and carry enough equipment to spend
a night if the need arises unexpectedly). He has a good 28' boat with cabin. We managed to
tie on the 4 kayaks without too much problem, and if need be I figure another tier could
be added. There was a strong southerly gale and we were uncertain about leaving for awhile
but after Tom talked to a few men returning from that way we knew it would be alright.
We headed out and got into quite a good lop, spray occasionally going right over us. But
nothing to it and before too long we were in the lee of Long Island and passing by the
islands Bread and Cheese. This is one of the decent crossings to the islands. After
leaving Arnold's Cove, you follow along the western shore to Bordeaux Island and then make
the 4km crossing to Bread Island, but beware the "seven combers that roll there day
by day" as recounted in local song. Local knowledge is always important!!
The Crew, left to right, Paul, Andy, Neil, Alison (photo Alison Dyer)
Bundled up for the wet crossing (photo Alison Dyer)
Kayaks loaded (photo Alison Dyer)
After a bit of a bumpy ride we got into the islands and proceeded down the Reach that runs between Merasheen Island and the Ragged Islands, the latter a nest of more than 300 lumpy islands of various sizes, plus many other smaller rocks. The main island is King Island where Baker Cove and Best's Harbour/Tack's Beach are located. The island is divided into two main bulks connected by a pebbly barasway, "The Neck", at the west end of Best's Hr.
View to east of Best's Hr from "The Neck" (photo Alison Dyer)
We arrived in Baker Cove inside of Best's Harbour and off-loaded at the wharf. Tom has two cabins there connected by a short, simple trail between them and also connected to Best's Harbour. The cabins are basic but perfect. A wharf near one cabin has a good stage head that also serves as the outhouse, with a comfortable seat positioned over the sea. (For those who question the idea of this type of outhouse, we also had a discussion one night. The fact is that there is basically no soil of any depth in the area and I think most of the islands are like this. There is no real soil depth for standard outhouses on the land or septic systems. Chemical toilets would be the only other option, but Neil informs me that in minor quantities there is no problem with being natural in the waters, in fact the ecosystem may even welcome it). The nearest cabin to the wharf hosts a single bed, a double and a day bed, with wood stove, propane stove and propane lamp. The other around the cove has a wood stove and two rooms with bunk beds for four. In season, partridgeberries can be picked just out around the door. A wonderful view out towards Merasheen Island to the east can be had from a picnic table and small bridge at the second cabin. One of the nice things about these cabins is that you have the whole cove to yourself. In Best's Harbour there are quite a few cabins, some occupied by seasonal fishermen, and the tendency is to use generators, the noise of which for most kayakers is unwelcome. However, people are not always out that way. In Baker Cove you hear nothing.
Cabins at Baker Cove (photo Alison Dyer)
Kayaks ashore at Baker Cove looking south (photo Alison Dyer)
Neil at Baker Cove with Merasheen Island in background (photo Alison Dyer)
So we set ourselves up and waited out the night as the sun set not long
after our arrival, and the wind was up in the Reach.
Sept 21
Next morning things were slow developing, but no problem as the wind blowing down the
Reach was fairly strong. By midday it had slacked off and off we went, leaving the cove
and heading south around Lower Castle.
Alison Dyer in her Perception. (photo Neil Burgess)
Andy in the Reach near Lower Castle (photo Alison Dyer)
Everyone puttered around and looked at basically everything along the shore. The paddling was easy and everyone was comfortable. We roved amongst the many islands passing up through to the west of Long Island (see map) and out through a narrow tickle to the north side of Green Island. There we chatted with Tom who was out cruising around and sitting on the wharf of a cabin having a beer with his girlfriend.
The tide was well down at this point and this prevented us from heading NW out of that area, so we went through Smith's Cove and around to the islands to the west. Here we could see the change in falling tide as it drained out of various coves, a cove above us being perhaps 25-35cm higher with a small stream flowing between the kelp-laden rocks. At this point Andy noted a myriad of tiny fish, possibly lancers, swimming through the crystal waters. The quantities were rather impressive and just basically interesting to view, especially as the water was so clear and they sparkled in the sporadic sunshine penetrating the water.
Falling tide near Green Island (photo Alison Dyer)
Clear water, golden kelp (photo Alison Dyer)
There was a large eagle nest on the largest island west of the entrance to Smith's Cove, and from there we hooked towards the south to the Fish Islands.
Perched eagle's nest on island NW of Green Island (photo Alison Dyer)
Passing through a narrow tickle Andy started tipping his kayak on its side to retrieve mussels. Neil managed to get some as well, but it was slow going. Passing along the south of the largest of the Fish Islands the cliff shore dipped vertically into the sea. The tide was low and the kelp covered faces revealed pockets of mussels clinging to the rock. We quickly stacked up on the tasty shellfish and brought them home for a night feast.
Collecting mussels from cliff face at low tide (photo Alison Dyer)
We continued on, passing another eagles nest on a cliff on South Tilt Island, rounding back towards Baker Cove from south of the Reach. Just off Lower Castle we met Tom again, jigging for cod. After a chat we raced back to get ready to jig a few ourselves. Neil caught one fish that evening, more guts than flesh though, but enough for a meal along with all the other things we prepared. Neil steamed the mussels in wine and garlic and they were extremely good. Along with the fish and other things we had quite the feed, part of the life on the water in Newfoundland that one should strive to enjoy.
Checking maps near South Tilt Island. Merasheen in back (photo Alison Dyer)
View north from inside Lower Castle (photo Alison Dyer)
Half a feed of fish courtesy of Neil. Wharf at Baker Cove (photo Paul Delaney)
That night we drank a few and then headed across to Best's Harbour to see if Tom was around. Despite the isolated area the generators were a bit much. Neil was particularly unimpressed with the noise, but that's some other people's life, and we can't fault their ways and they are out there for different reasons. On the return we sat on the picnic table in the calm, cool air, looking out towards the high island of Merasheen, knocking the top off a few flasks of the tasty, brown elixir called Screech, as well as Lamb's. Andy, unable to handle the idea of straight rum, disappeared to the bunk while the rest of us polished off the rest. I firmly believe that when you are on outings like this that they should be the best days of your life, which should include good paddling, good food, good people, and a good drink if you like. Everyone in our group believes the same I think, as do most kayakers I have met and travelled with.
View southeast from above Baker Cove. Merasheen across the Reach and distant background
(photo Alison Dyer)
Sept 22 route map
Next day we were up early. Andy prepared a hardy breakfast and with some coaxing Alison
managed to raise herself, and Neil joined in as well.
Happy cook, Andy Hennebury (photo Neil)
Alison not ready to rise. (photo Neil)
We tried to ready everything for the return trip before we left and then started around into Best's Harbour preparing to cross the "Neck" at the west end of the harbour.
Remnants of last old stage head in Best's Hr (photo Neil)
Andy in Best's Hr (photo Alison Dyer)
Best's Hr (photo Alison Dyer)
We met Tom on the wharf and he suggested that if we had everything ready he would pick us up on the floating dock on North Tilt Island. This was infinitely better than our plan of returning and loading at the cabins, but Andy and Alison had to go back to pack a few things and bring them to the wharf, where Tom eventually loaded them onto the boat later. At the Neck we took a walk out to the graveyards at Best's Hr and Tacks Beach and over to the latter community for a look.
Cemetery between Tack's Beach and Best's Hr (photo Alison Dyer)
Tack's Beach (photo Alison Dyer)
Paul and Neil at Tack's Beach (photo Alison Dyer)
Swings at Tack's Beach (photo Alison Dyer)
Getting back into the kayaks we headed slowly out to Cooper's Cove, with eagles flying above the Neck.
View north from the "Neck" (photo Alison Dyer)
The water was perfect and it was good paddling. Passing through the narrow kelp-lined channel of Long Reach we were passed by a boat that nicely slowed before passing. This channel was a nice, protected, curvy zone and we took our time. We continued passing around many islands and entered Sayer's Gut, but headed through a few more islands amongst the Billy Green Islands, sighting another eagle.
View north in Long Reach with Toms Bottom Hill in distant background (photo Alison Dyer)
Long Reach area (photo Alison Dyer)
Out finally into the main Reach we got a small bit of lop where Andy got a bit of a surf, before getting inside more islands and into the deeply inset, narrow cove on North Tilt Island. A half a dozen good cabins are there with barking dogs holding the fort. We landed for a meal, waiting for Tom but no sooner had we landed but he showed up, anxious to get moving as winds were predicted to rise. Loading the kayaks from the floating dock we got underway. Thence began a furious feeding frenzy on the rear deck using the kayaks as poor tables. We stopped a few times to jig some good cod, Andy carrying the day, but I got a few too.
East side of Billy Green Islands (photo Alison Dyer)
Cabins on North Tilt Island (photo Neil)
Andy at North Tilt Island cabins (photo Alison Dyer)
Loading kayaks from floating dock at North Tilt Island (photo Alison Dyer)
View NE from North Tilt Island. Great Brule sits below prominent knob in
distant background (photo Alison Dyer).
Jigging cod on the return trip (photo Neil).
Paul gets one (photo Alison Dyer)
Andy gets another (photo Alison Dyer)
Heading home (photo Alison Dyer)
We returned to Arnold's Cove late in the afternoon..... contemplating
another return to Merasheen.
Some of the photos taken by Neil were a bit fuzzy due to water and salt on his waterproof
protective case. He's working on a way to alleviate this problem. Alison's photos were
scanned from prints.
Our daily trip lengths were about 15 km on the first day and 12.5 km on the last day with
everything quite relaxed. Winds were pretty calm, with only a mild following sea as we
moved along the west side north of Long Reach on the last day. The temperature was just
comfortable every day.
Safety factors while paddling mainly revolve around any crossings to the mainland. Once
inside the main islands it's pretty hard to get into trouble in the areas we travelled.
However, rounding the southern end of Merasheen and in general venturing to more open
waters including crossing to Long Island you can be exposed to southerly winds that I have
experienced can come up in a remarkable hurry. Fog in those same areas can also become a
problem for navigation.
Camping possibilities from what I have seen are more or less limited to resettled areas
and a few boggy barren sea marshes where you might find enough room along the edge or in
the trees, but from a distance a few others islands looked possible, such as Marshall
Island west of Ragged Islands. Beaches are not common with mostly low cliffs or rocks,
with trees right to the edge and tuckamore abounding, but with the lack of swells amongst
the protected islands, it would be possible to get out in a lot of areas if really
necessary and you could no doubt make a spot amongst the tuckamore somehow.
Cell phones can work in the area, but you may have to climb a hill.
Wildlife was not particularly plentiful although we saw a few eagles and eagle nests.
Placentia Bay hosts some 400 nesting pairs of eagles. Ducks are also plentiful, and
although we didn't see any, Neil says there are lots of otters throughout the islands (he
has worked with them as a biologist). Tom said that perhaps a week or two later than our
trip that caribou would be wandering all around our cabins, and it's certain that healthy
caribou occupy all the main islands.
The Merasheen Island area is one of the more wonderful areas in which to kayak around
Newfoundland. While whales (found here as well in season in deeper waters) and icebergs
may be a big attraction to kayakers elsewhere around the island, this area, so full of
unoccupied islands, so pristine, so able to provide both very sheltered kayaking for
novices to more challenging adventures to the braver souls, has to be a destination at
some time to any kayaker desiring to experience our waters and history. It's a bit harder
to reach than other famous locales but that is half the pleasure...the peace. The area is
so large that you can return here more than a few times without worry and the peacefulness
such that even retracing your steps will make for another rewarding outing. As well as
kayaking, the rugged terrain provides ample opportunity for hiking where much of the
higher land is relatively barren and should be easy hiking, especially on the main island
of Merasheen for a long trip, but also hourly trips to high hills around Tack's Beach and
Great Brule. The views should be awesome. I'm told fish are present in the ponds and
brooks. It would be no problem to pass 7-10 days out here with pleasure. In fact the whole
of the west side of Placentia Bay has amazing potential for kayaking as I have seen both
in kayak (Davis Cove-Bar Haven trip report) and in boat towards St.Kyran's, and as Tim
Hollett wrote in another trip report.