By Paul Delaney
Companions: Brian MacPhee, Peter Armitage, Barb Neis, Sarah Roberts and James Youden and their child, Siu O’Young
Date of trip: July 19-21, 2002
Maps 1 to 3 - North Harbour to Best’s Harbour
Map 2 - Detailed route map
Friday
We left on Friday morning from North Harbour, Placentia Bay. It’s possible to make the crossing by kayak but the minimum open crossing distance is about 4 km and Placentia Bay can be tricky at times. Also, getting a bigger boat to carry you, you are less affected by the weather for the return, especially if you have a time schedule in your life. Once you make the decision to hire a boat, you also realize you are not restricted in what gear and other comforts you carry with you. On this trip, this latter feature proved rather useful.
We met at the wharf about 9 am, some of us anyway, but by the time we got everything loaded and tied down, it was about 10:30 before we left. We hired the services of Dave Slade, and his wife came along to assist. Dave is retired from the Dept. of Wildlife and he has spent much of his time around Merasheen Island in that capacity, so he knows pretty well the entire area quite well, and makes for a good tour guide. Dave actually runs a tour service with his boat and can be reached at 709-549-2217. His self made boat is 45’ long and quite comfortable and seaworthy. He helps “Search And Rescue” at times and has been out in 50 knot winds looking for lost fishermen, an indication of the capability of his craft. This was his first time loading kayaks and we managed to get them all (6) on easily with the aid of a structure he uses for turr hunting. I know that since our trip, he has outfitted his boat to carry at least a dozen kayaks, as he was participating in a Search and Rescue Exercise off Long Island with kayaks as the lost boats. So a large group could easily make use of his services and this would also keep individual costs down.
Plates 1 & 2 - Loading the Slade boat prior to departure from North Harbour.
The seas were quite lumpy upon leaving harbour with a pretty brisk breeze. However, as we started to approach the islands the sea flattened out remarkably quickly, even though we were still some ways from them. Passing Great Brule at the top of Merasheen Island we headed down the channel between the Ragged Islands on the west and Merasheen Island to the east. The channel is known locally as “the Reach”. At this point all those times looking at a map and imagining how perfect this area would be was overwhelmed by the reality of what it looked like with our own eyes. People started talking about the return trip already and we hadn’t even gotten into our kayaks yet. A batch of cabins with wharves and a floating dock are positioned in a long, narrow cove on North Tilt Island, which is quite near the top of the Ragged Islands.
Plates 3 to 9 - route to Best's Harbour along the Reach between Ragged and Merasheen Islands.
The sun, which was hidden by thick fog in the morning, had come out and the day was cloudless and warm. The sea was perfectly flat inside the Reach and Dave informed us that the water temperatures were running 12-14o C, not bad for July.
Our destination was Best’s Harbour, approximately 2 hours steam from North Harbour, which is quite well protected from north and south but winds from the west and east would blow the length of the harbour. This centrally located, narrow neck is great for kayakers as you can easily pull your kayaks across in minutes and access the other side of the islands or avoid winds blasting one side or the other. The same is true for Merasheen Island as Dog Harbour Neck is perfectly located about midway up the island and you can cross with ease and have access to the east side of the island and possibly to cross to Long Island without the very long paddle around either the north or south of the island. The southerly route around Merasheen has to be approached with caution as it is long, rugged and exposed with no places to put in. This wonderful geographic situation makes either Dog Harbour or Best’s Harbour area great places to set up. Trips directly out of either are possible, or either could be used as a base camp/cache with mobile camps to get you further afield. Lots of options!
There are quite a lot of cabins/houses in Best’s Harbour and around the corner in Baker’s Cove, Tack’s Beach and Broad Cove. Upon arriving at Best’s Harbour, we landed all our gear on a wharf and went looking for a campsite. The best spot by far is out on “the neck”, a barachois that links the main chunks of King Island.
Plates 10, 11 & 12 - Best's Harbour and our campsite at Tack's Beach
Plate 13 - Entering Best’s Harbour from the east.
After deciding on the campsite we had to lug all our gear along the well maintained trail that runs out to the neck and onto Tack’s Beach and Broad Cove. Some stuff we carried on our kayaks departing from a small beach near the wharf where we landed. The day being so nice, everyone rather took their time setting up. In fact it was around 4:30 pm before we actually got on the water. We really should have only set up the minimum or left it all till later and had a longer day paddling but we did alright anyway. Others following this route should try to leave as early as possible to get as much of the day as possible on the water.
So finally, five of us left the beach and headed out towards “the Reach” and then to the south. A fairly good breeze was blowing up the Reach but by hugging the high land we were able to keep out of the wind. The only bit of lumpy sea we saw was as we rounded the south tip of Lower Castle, and that was minimal. We continued on to the west as you can see from the red lines on the Map 4. The paddling was quite easy and everyone was comfortable. As it was getting late by the time we reached Deep Cove, we decided to head back. While the others turned straight back, myself and Siu decided we would go around Long Island (not the big one to the east of Merasheen Island) and meet the others at its north end. We had a good hard paddle into the breeze before running back with the wind and lop, finding a small cave we could enter on the east side of the island. Continuing on we could just about surf on the small lops, but alas, not quite. Meeting the rest of the group we all headed back up the reach and to camp.
Plate 14 - Barb and Peter rounding Lower Castle. Merasheen Island in background.
Plate 15 - Siu in notch on Long Island
The night was quite nice and calm and everyone prepared various meals. Brian and I had a curried chicken dish with rice that I had prepared in advance and frozen. A few beer disappeared as well. A large floorless teepee tent had been set up complete with wood stove. This served as the main meeting place and cook tent.
Plaste 16 - Paul and Barb in front of the teepee.
Saturday
As expected, it rained Saturday. We were expecting about 10 mm, but we’re sure we got a lot more. I arose just as the rain started about 6:30 am after hearing someone else’s tent zipper. But with the heavy rain, no one else actually bothered to get up until around 9:30 I think. The heavy rain had a way of lessening people’s desire to get started, while everyone knows if it rained while on the water, no one would be bothered. Also there was a good bit of thunder and lightning so wise to stay put. So we huddled in the warm teepee tent for most of the day until a break in the rain allowed us to re-energize and go for the kayaks.
Plate 17 - Siu in Smith’s Cove area, looking towards the west and the White Islands with the Burin Peninsula in the distant background
Sarah and Barb declined the outing, so only five again took to the water at about 2 pm. The weather by this time was windless and dry, but quite muggy and the sea mostly “like the oil”. The lull in the rain lasted for half of our 4 hour paddle, whereupon it descended on us with vigour equal to the morning. This time we hauled our kayaks over to the west side of the neck and headed south past Tack’s Beach and into Broad Cove where we had a chat with a local fisherman on a wharf with his two dogs. Beyond that we wove our way along the shoreline and amongst the islands to the top of Green Island where another cabin is located, owned by Bill Crosbie out of Paradise, the one near town. We had a short talk before heading on through the tickle and thence on to Judge’s Gut.
Plate 18 - Peter in Green Island Tickle.
Plate 19 - Paddling through Judge’s Gut
Plate 20 - Brian MacPhee in the South Tilt Island area.
Plate 21 - Brian MacPhee in the South Tilt Island area.
Dave Slade had told us where to find the site of a rock slide many years ago that had exposed the grave and body of a Beothuk child in a cove on Hangman’s Island. The body had of course been removed and there wasn’t much to see beyond the jumbled rocks, but Siu went ashore and climbed around a bit to see if he could find any evidence of the gravesite. From there we paddled around the south end of Pincher’s Island, just north of the high Jean de Gaunt Island. The man we met in Broad Cove told us of a cave on the west side of Jean de Gaunt Island where you could pass through and then land on a beach. However, we didn’t have time to look for it so it will have to wait for another time.
Plate 22 - Weaving through the islands and kelp at south end of Pincher’s Island. Jean de Gaunt Island right central background.
Plate 23 - Jean de Gaunt Island to right, Creve islands to left and central. Merasheen in background.
We headed back to Best’s Harbour via “the Reach”, passing below Upper Castle. Upon reaching our home I immediately went for a wash in the ocean. The muggy conditions, wet suit and rain coat gave me a case of neoprene itches, so a wash was definitely needed, and with the rain it was best to jump in before I got warm and comfortable. The water was cool but fine. It really did the trick.
Plate 24 - Last point before Best’s Harbour
At this point the value of being able to bring extra gear really paid off. Since people had stayed behind there was a fire in the teepee tent and it was great to get into a warm dry place. Some good food and beer soon got everyone very comfortable.
Plate 25 - Jennifer Bailey & Tom Bailey on the wharf.
Earlier in the day just as we were leaving the beach Tom Bailey and his kids came by. He was born in Best’s Harbour but left with resettlement when he was 6. He has now set up on his family’s land and comes out basically every weekend. A few of us dropped over in the evening with a bit of rum in hand and had a chat. Tom has been the man responsible for trimming the grass and cutting out the old trails between the communities. He becomes an important contact for the return trip.
Sunday
Sunday dawned beautifully and augered well for paddling. There was a cool northwest wind blowing down the Reach, but it wasn’t much of a factor during the day. We passed out of Best’s Harbour and headed north into the Reach. We had intended to pass along the inside of Riley’s Island but the falling tide had cut off the channel at it’s south entrance. We paddled north in and out of every cove. At Dog Hbr Island we entered into what is called “the Big Southwest” and towards Dog Harbour Neck where you can cross to the east side of Merasheen Island (It’s only about 100-150m across). This was used by the fishermen of old to pull their boats across to access other fishing grounds. The views in this area were great with broad vistas of the high, lumpy, variably forested and barren hills completely unbroken by any signs of civilization, basically a kayakers dream. (There are however two mussel farms in the area, one in the southwest corner of the Big Southwest and another amongst the islands near the entrance). With the falling tide the steep shores revealed masses of kelp, hanging like curtains. One of the interesting things about the whole area is that every single island or rock is covered with some amount of trees, often more than a bit picturesque, and unique. Saw one big fish jump completely clear of the water, but there was no time to identify its type.
Plate 26 - Looking north in The Reach from entrance to The Big Southwest.
Plate 27 - Small island, Big Southwest area.
Plate 28 - Kelp curtains in Big Southwest area.
Plate 29 - Siu and Peter in Big Southwest area.
We paddled down to Dog Harbour Neck where we landed and walked across to the east side, now looking over at Long Island. There is a Wildlife cabin and wharf on that side and all the trees have been trimmed out in front. Dave Slade directed the building of the cabin and wharf and his boat can dock here, too. You can camp under the trees or out above the beach. A meal of bottled rabbit and hot tea, amongst a variety of other things, eaten in the clear,cool air was enjoyed by all. Siu, totally unabashedly, in front of everyone, stripped off all his clothes and went for a dip, oddly enough, deciding to put on a neoprene skullcap!!
Plate 30 - Dog Harbour Neck looking east.
Plate 31 - Dog Harbour Neck looking into Big Southwest.
The paddle back was equally nice. Dave arrived around 5pm and we loaded her up and left for home. This time we borrowed Tom’s rodney and ferried all gear to Dave’s boat, even taking the kayaks on board from the water.
Before Dave came however, we got Tom’s daughter, 15, and son,
11, into two of our kayaks and Siu escorted them aroundthe harbour just off the beach, and
gave them a few lessons. The kids really seemed to enjoy this and I think we will probably
have a few more kayakers amongst our company pretty soon.
Despite one day of heavy rain I think everyone had a great time. There was good food, good
companions, good beer and rum, a good trip in Dave’s boat, a good new contact made,
excellent paddling and views. Still so much that can be done. The area is so huge and
suitable for novices up to experts looking for hard water. The millions of islands and
channels are basically what most kayakers that I know are looking for. There is ample room
to combine kayaking and hiking. Lots of caribou occupy all the main islands and the hills
are quite high and rugged.
Personally I can see the kayaking club holding the May 24th paddle out there. It would be extremely memorable for everyone and some of the contacts we have made would make this very doable and comfortable.
Never saw a lot of wildlife, but there are lots of sea otters in the area and their workings were noted in many areas. A few eagles were seen. Lots of scoter ducks were around including one group that consisted of 17 chicks with two adults. Due to the time of year, the caplin season had already passed. With that there were no whales, and probably less eagles, but usually Placentia Bay has lots of eagles as I have seen on other trips. Mussels and scallops can be found and you can jig cod in season, to make the fullest of your time on the water, in Nfld. Beyond the masses of kelp visible in some of the photos lots of the coves had eel grass, good cod habitat.
As for the contact with Tom Bailey. A bunch of us did a return trip and we rented two small, simple cabins in Baker Cove, just around the corner from Best’s Harbour and connected by a good trail. This was just great as we had the cove to ourselves without the noise of the generators in Best’s Harbour, something we also didn’t hear from the Neck. The cove is perfectly protected and the cabins basic but all you need. Tom has Bailey’s Furniture store in Placentia-Freshwater area and can be reached at 227-2526. He goes out basically every weekend and it’s possible to hitch a ride. Although many people prefer to camp for the simplicity of nature, the cabins are just great, especially if you happen to be out in the spring or fall when it can get cool or you get lots of rain. There are wood stoves in each, room for 4 single bunks in one and a double, single and day bed in the other which also features a propane stove and white gas lantern. In season partridgeberries can be picked at the front door. As mentioned earlier this could also serve as a base from where you can cache goods and do some overnighters further afield.