Fox Harbour to Placentia Sound

 June 5, 2005

 By Brian Newhook

Weather: Sunny, 18 degrees C
Trip Length: 4 hrs total
Paddlers: Brian Newhook, Stephen Newhook, Trent Hardy

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Our paddle route is marked in red (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

My Aunt had told me about the beauty of Placentia Sound several times in years past. When I bought my kayak, she reminded me that I have to visit the area, given that I live in Dunville, just 10 minutes from Fox Harbour. So one weekend Trent, Stephen and I decided to check it out. The forecast was perfect, with sunshine and little or no winds.

Fox Harbour is located on Route 102, which is just off of the Argentia road, with the turnoff located in Dunville. As you drive through Fox Harbour, take the road that forks off to the left and there is a beach on the right hand side that you can’t miss. There are numerous other beaches in the community to launch your kayak as well. We left the beach around noon.

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Stephen and Trent gearing up on the beach in Fox Harbour (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

The water was very calm, and we were very happy as this was Stephen’s first paddle, so we wanted nice, flat conditions. Our first destination once we left the harbour was the Isaac Heads, just off to the west. You can see these two heads from the road when you drive on Route 102.

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Stephen getting used to the paddle strokes (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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Trent in his recreational river kayak. He has since upgraded! (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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Stephen and Trent with one of the Isaac Heads in the background (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

I had read that there were still some foundations of a building or two put there by the Americans during World War II, to protect the their naval base in Argentia from attacks. My aunt had been beach combing in the area a few years ago and found a sign saying some to the effect of “No Trespassing or you will be shot”, although I can’t remember exactly what it said. After about 20 minutes of paddling we were on the beach at the Isaac Heads. There is a great beach for landing here, and it looked like a fantastic place for a picnic or beach fire, with lots of driftwood. We got out of our boats to explore.

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Stephen on the beach at Isaac Heads, with Argentia in the background (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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The beach at Isaac Heads (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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Beach on opposite side of Isaac Heads (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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Foundations of WWII American building (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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The beach and Isaac point (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

We found a few other foundations of smaller buildings in the area, and lots of wood and rusty nails. Looking out at Placentia Bay, we could see that this area can be very exposed if the weather is rough.

After a short lunch, we headed back out on the water again, this time to go inside Placentia Sound. This is a fairly open paddle for novices, but today was especially calm so we had no problems. We saw a few ospreys and one eagle along the way, always a welcome sight. Somewhere on the opposite side of the sound there is an abandoned silver mine, at or near Broad Cove, but I was unsure exactly where, so we decided to skip it and view it another time. If you have time, you may want to check this out.

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Stephen making his way across the sound (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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Approaching the inside of the sound (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

In about 30 minutes we had reached the mouth of the inside of Placentia Sound (between White Point and Coxhill Point), where there is an impressive cliff on the north side of the arm, opposite of Coxhill Cove, so we spent sometime examining it, and unfortunately, I forgot to take any pictures of it. Once we got past the cliffs and inside the sound, we saw a beach off to the right at Shalloway Cove, and contemplated checking it out, and maybe having a lunch there, but decided to go further into the sound and look for a beach in there. The inside of Placentia is very beautiful, with both sides lined with lush green trees and cliffs. It was breathtaking. 

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Paddling inside Placentia Sound (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

While paddling along, we found the foundations and framing to a cabin on the north side going in, with a small brook running down beside it, a good place to refill your water bottle. We saw quite a few small beaches suitable for landing if needed all on the north side. The opposite side has few landing spots and is mostly steep cliffs and rocks. After another 20 to 30 minutes of paddling we came to a great looking beach for a lunch. There were lots of drift wood, but unfortunately no fresh water in sight. We beached our boats and started to collect wood and get a fire going. I had to make a phone call, and I was surprised that I could get reception here in this area. It was not the best signal, but I was still able to get through. While we were getting the fire ready there were 2 bald eagles flying overhead.

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Trent makes his way to the beach (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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The boys unloading the food (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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The calm waters of inside Placentia Sound (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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Trent getting the fire going, while Stephen searches for some fresh water, with no success (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

This appears to be a great camping spot, except for the lack of fresh water, however, further up the sound there is a river, and there may be better places near the river, but this is as far as we made it inside the sound. We roasted some wieners and marshmallows and enjoyed a cup of tea. The days don’t get much better than this.  

Once we were finished our lunch and were thoroughly relaxed, we decided we’d best get back on the water. It was approximately 2pm when we put our boats back on the water. As we made our way towards the mouth of the sound we noticed that the wind had increased, coming in from the west, and it was starting to get a little choppy. As soon as we rounded the cliff on the north side and were open to the rest of Placentia Sound the winds hit us, and the waves started getting larger, and white crests forming on their tops. This was going to be fun paddle back to Fox Harbour!

We made a straight line for Conner Cove Point, with the wind and waves hitting us on our port bow. This was a challenge for me, as I was relatively new to paddling myself, and I got wet a few times when a wave broke over my port side and over my spray skirt. My Seaknife handled it well though, and I was impressed with its sea keeping abilities. Stephen was doing just fine as well (he was in a Seaknife also, borrowed from Angie, my girlfriend). Trent however was working especially hard in his recreational river kayak, given its bathtub proportions, but he is a very strong paddler and was keeping up with us without too much trouble (I think this was the day he decided it was time to upgrade to something more suited for the ocean). And he was having a bit of fun surfing down some of the waves. At this point they had reached about 3 feet height.

After what seemed like an eternity of steady, hard paddling, we finally reached Conner Cove Point, and once we rounded it, we had some shelter from the wind. We then surfed/sailed our way into Fox Harbour, with the wind at our backs. We landed on the beach in Fox Harbour at 4:00pm, loaded up and headed back to my place in Dunville for a few beers and a BBQ!

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 Re-entering Fox Harbour (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

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Trent gives me the thumbs up after a great paddle (thumbnail - click on image to enlarge)

When paddling in the area, be very careful of the winds, they can come up at any moment. All day it was flat calm without a breath of wind, and with minutes it was blowing quite heavily.  It seems to occur around mid to late afternoon, so the earlier you get on the water the better.


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