By Bob Gagnon, St.John's, Newfoundland
rgagnon@nf.sympatico.ca
On July 1, 1999, Siu O'Young and I did the Spout run. This run is a long paddle (28 km) from put-in at Bay Bulls to take-out at Petty Harbour. The weather conditions had to be very good before we commited ourselves to the trip since there are few places to get onshore along the way.
Map showing route taken from Bay Bulls to Petty Harbour via "The Spout." Thumbnail: click on image to enlarge.
The winds were westerly (offshore) and forecast to be that way all day. Furthermore one of the boat tour guides had just come in from outside Bay Bulls as we started to paddle at around 11:30 am, and he told us conditions were perfect outside. Even so, we didn't commit to the full trip until we paddled the 5 kms to get out of Bay Bulls. Everything looked very good at that point (Bull Head, where there is a navigational light) so we continued.
The paddle for the next 5 or so km was pleasant with a few whale spouts at some distance away. The shoreline was very rough and jagged. The hiking trail from Petty Harbour to bay bulls runs along shore and occasionally hikers were visible. We reached the Spout at about 2:00 pm. Several hikers were around there. Just before getting to the Spout we saw a couple of guys diving off the craggy shore and swimming (briefly) in the water. The Spout wasn't sending water very high because swell and wave conditions were very tame.
"The Spout" - from the ocean. (photo Bob Gagnon)
We stopped at a great little boulder beach not far from the Spout for lunch. Getting the boats up onto the beach and out again required considerable care since the big boulders were slippery.
The Spout area and next few kms are truly spectacular. Very high cliffs, deep caves and some with high water falls. The entrance to one of the caves looked every bit like a towering cathedral. A number of large sea stacks are also prominent in this area. We noted a few more small boulder beaches nestled in amongst rough rock outshoots that seemed accessible in good weather.
Exploring cliffs on the way to "The Spout." (photo Bob Gagnon).
As with all the paddling to that point there would always be a few whale spouts in the distance. And of course puffins, seagulls and other sea birds constantly keeping us company, in the air and from their nests on the cliffs.
Being pleased with the progress of the trip and the things we had seen we were settling into the last 5 kms of the trip not expecting much else as we approached Motion Head just before heading into Petty Harbour. Then it happened. We cruised into an area with many whales feeding vigorously. They were popping up here and there, a few times within 20 ft of our boats. There were humpbacks and fin whales, or possibly minkes. We sat there for almost an hour taking in this fantastic show and I got a few pictures. Too bad we couldn't record the sound of these guys spouting at close range.
A couple of humpback whales near Motion Head. (photo Bob Gagnon).
Finally we left the feeding frenzy and paddled the final 4 km into Petty Harbour, taking-out at around 7 pm. We concluded our trip feeling very elated (and admittedly a touch weary). After cooking in our own juices inside dry suites all day it was rather pleasant getting into light clothing while packing up at the warf.
A whale of a tail. (photo Bob Gagnon).